We find where the conditioned air is escaping — a dropped boot, a split flex, an unsealed plenum seam — and close it with mastic and mechanical fasteners, not tape that lets go in a year.
AMG repairs and seals residential and commercial ductwork across New Jersey. The most common job is not dramatic: a branch that has pulled off its boot in a crawlspace, a flex run crushed under storage in an attic, or plenum seams that were never properly sealed when the system was installed. Any of those quietly dumps conditioned air into a space nobody lives in, which is why one room never keeps up while the rest of the house is fine. We inspect the accessible runs, find the leaks, then close them with mastic and mechanical fasteners rather than tape, because tape dries out and releases — usually within a couple of seasons in an unconditioned attic. Where a run is beyond sealing, we replace that section rather than patch it. Every repair is photographed. Free estimate, quoted before work starts.
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What you get
What the visit is actually worth to you.
01
The room that never keeps up finally does
A disconnected branch or a crushed flex run is the usual reason one bedroom sits four degrees off the rest of the house. Airflow improvement is the single most-mentioned result in our Google reviews — eleven of them name it directly.
02
Sealed with mastic, not tape
Duct tape on a duct is a running joke in this trade for a reason: the adhesive bakes out in an attic and the joint opens again. We use mastic and mechanical fasteners, which is what the seam is supposed to have had in the first place.
03
You stop paying to heat the crawlspace
Every cubic foot of conditioned air that leaves through an open seam was paid for at the furnace or the compressor. Sealing the accessible runs is the cheapest airflow work there is, and it does not require touching the equipment.
04
We tell you when it is not worth repairing
Some runs are past sealing — flex that has been compressed for a decade, or a trunk with corrosion through the seam. We say so and quote the replacement section instead of charging you to patch something that will fail again.
When to call
Signs it is time.
One room that is always several degrees off the rest of the house
Weak airflow at a register that used to be fine
A whistling or rushing sound near the air handler when the system runs
Visible dust drawn to a seam or joint on exposed ductwork
Insulation or debris pulled into a register from a crawlspace run
A duct in the attic or crawlspace visibly hanging, kinked or crushed
Utility bills climbing with no change in how you run the system
Step by step
How the work goes.
01
Walk the accessible runs
Attic, crawlspace, basement and any exposed trunk. We look for disconnects, kinks, crushed flex, corroded seams and unsealed joints.
02
Test where the air is going
Registers are checked for airflow against the rest of the system so the weak branch is identified rather than guessed at.
03
Show you the leak first
You get the photo before the repair is quoted. Nobody should approve work on a duct they have never seen.
04
Seal, fasten and support
Mastic on the seams, mechanical fasteners at the connections, and proper strapping so a repaired run is not resting on a joist waiting to sag again.
05
Replace what cannot be sealed
Crushed or corroded sections are cut out and replaced with new duct rather than wrapped and hoped for.
06
Re-check the affected registers
We confirm the branch is delivering again before we pack up, and photograph the finished work.
Why duct tape fails and mastic does not
Duct tape is a pressure-sensitive adhesive on a cloth backing, designed for temporary holds at room temperature. A New Jersey attic swings from below freezing in January to well over a hundred degrees in July, and that cycle drives the plasticiser out of the adhesive. What is left is a stiff film that shrinks, curls at the edge and releases the joint — usually within two summers. Mastic is a different thing entirely: a thick fibre-reinforced paste that is brushed over the seam and cures into a flexible solid bonded to the metal. It moves with the duct as it expands, it does not dry brittle, and it fills the irregular gap at a boot connection that no tape can bridge. Where the joint also needs mechanical strength, sheet-metal screws or a draw band go in first and the mastic goes over the top. That combination is what the seam should have had on the day the system was installed.
Crawlspace and attic runs are where the damage lives
Nobody looks at ductwork they cannot stand up next to, which is exactly why the failures concentrate there. In a crawlspace the enemies are moisture, rodents and time: insulation sags off the run, a boot works loose from its floor register, and the branch ends up delivering to the dirt. In an attic the enemy is storage — a box on a flex run compresses it to a third of its diameter, and the run never recovers because flex has no memory. Both problems are invisible from inside the house. What you notice instead is one room that will not hold temperature and a system that runs longer than it used to. We photograph these runs specifically, because it is the only way most homeowners will ever see them.
Before you book
Questions about air duct repair
How do I know whether my ducts need repair or just cleaning?
Cleaning is for what is inside the duct; repair is for the duct itself. If a room is consistently off temperature, airflow at one register is weak, or you can hear rushing air near the air handler, that is a repair symptom. Dust streaks at the grille and a musty smell on start-up are cleaning symptoms. Plenty of houses need both, and we will tell you which is doing the damage.
Can you repair ductwork in a crawlspace or a tight attic?
Yes — that is where most of the work is, because those are the runs nobody has looked at since installation. Access is the practical limit rather than the repair itself: if a section is genuinely unreachable without cutting finished ceilings, we tell you that before quoting rather than after.
Do you use duct tape to seal ducts?
No. Duct tape releases once an attic has been through a summer or two, which is why the joint you paid to seal opens again. We use mastic and mechanical fasteners, which is what the connection should have had originally, and it stays sealed through the temperature swing.
Will sealing my ducts actually lower my energy use?
Air that leaks into a crawlspace was still heated or cooled by your equipment, so yes, closing it up stops paying for conditioning space you do not live in. We will not put a percentage on your house, because the honest answer depends on how leaky it is now — which is what the inspection is for.
Is repairing worth it, or should I replace the ductwork?
It depends on the condition of the run, not its age. Rigid trunk that is sound but unsealed is a straightforward repair. Flex that has been crushed for years, or metal with corrosion through the seam, is replacement work — sealing it just moves the failure a few feet along. We will show you the photo and say which one you are looking at.